Skin gets dry in winter.
It’s just a fact. As the weather gets colder, the air becomes drier, and that means it steals more moisture from the skin.
We all know we need efficient moisturizing products in winter, but it can be tough to find the right ones. After all, we want hydrating moisture, not a greasy film that increases risk of breakouts.
To help you adapt as the seasons change, we wanted to explain the different kinds of ingredients you’re likely to find in moisturizers, and which ones you want to be included in the products you buy.
Why Does Skin Get Dry in Cold Weather?
The skin is not a solid material. Though a healthy outer layer can help retain moisture, skin is porous by nature, which means that water vapor is regularly lost through evaporation.
Cold weather accelerates this process for a number of reasons:
- Cold air is drier than warm air. It will naturally “pull” more moisture from the skin to establish equilibrium.
- Windy environments speed up water vapor evaporation.
- Indoor heaters blow warm air on the skin, which also robs it of moisture.
- Warm showers and baths pull more moisture from skin.
- Harsh weather conditions can cause more damage to the outer layer of skin, making it more difficult for skin to hold onto the moisture it does have.
- The skin gradually becomes less efficient at retaining moisture with age.
As skin starts to get dry, if we don’t address that dryness right away, old, dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, causing skin to appear not only dry, but rough, while making it more difficult for any moisturizer to penetrate.
Types of Moisturizers
When we think of moisturizers, most of us just want something that makes skin feel smooth and soft and that fades fine lines and wrinkles.
Moisturizers actually do more than soften skin, though. In general, they perform four vital functions:
- Draw water into the skin
- Fill in spaces between skin cells
- Help retain a strong outer barrier
- Trap moisture in and help keep it from evaporating
Let’s look at the types of ingredients that perform these four functions.
1. Humectants to Attract Moisture
These are the ingredients in a moisturizer that attract water molecules from the environment and help draw them into the skin. They often hold many times their weight in moisture.
One problem with humectants is that they can also draw water up from the deeper layers of skin, depositing them into the dermis or surface layer. That can actually result in dryer skin over time, so humectants are usually combined with other ingredients called “occlusives” to prevent water loss.
When looking for humectants, safe and effective options include:
- Glycerin: Also called glycerol, glycerin is a natural fat that replenishes and restores the skin. It can be derived from fats or sugars, or may be synthetically manufactured.
- Hyaluronic acid: This is a natural element of skin. A polysaccharide (carbohydrate) that is present in the spaces between skin cells, it provides moisture and suppleness. The kind that’s used in moisturizers is usually made synthetically in the laboratory.
- Aloe: This natural humectant penetrates skin quickly and helps moisturize at all levels.
- Honey: Honey helps the skin hold onto water and also hydrates without greasiness.
- Lecithin: This substance is a naturally occurring fat found in egg yolks and sunflower seeds, and helps soften and tone skin.
Try to avoid these:
- Propylene glycol: It’s a by-product of petroleum refining, and can be irritating to sensitive skin.
- PEG: Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are also petroleum-based and may be contaminated with carcinogens like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane.
- Silicones: These are man-made chemicals that form a film over the skin’s surface, and may increase acne breakouts.
- Urea: Also used as a preservative, urea works as a humectant, but it may release formaldehyde, a carcinogen, and can also increase risk of contact dermatitis.
2. Emollients to Fill In the Spaces
These are the ingredients that help “fill in” the spaces between skin cells. They are the “skin smoothers” that improve texture and softness, making skin appear more plump and full.
When looking for emollients, safe and effective options include:
- Natural oil: Any of the natural oils, including olive, jojoba, sunflower, and more, work as safe and effective emollients, as they contain a good amount of natural fatty acids.
- Fatty acids: Sometimes, the fatty acids are added in individually. Examples include stearic, linoleic, lauric, oleic, and linoleic acids.
- Natural butters: These include shea, cocoa, and jojoba butters.
Try to avoid these:
- Petroleum-based ingredients: These include mineral oil and petrolatum.
3. Ceramides to Retain a Strong Outer Barrier
These are lipids or fats that are naturally found in skin, where they help maintain the integrity of the skin barrier. They are often called “skin glue” because they help hold surface skin cells together. They’re added to moisturizers to help improve barrier function and heal damaged skin.
Ceramides are often included in the “emollients” category as they are lipids that help fill in spaces between skin cells, but they also have a unique ability to help restore barrier function, so we list them separately here.
Ceramides may be synthetically manufactured, or may be plant-based, depending on the formula. So far, all of these appear to be safe.
4. Occlusives to Trap Moisture In
These ingredients are usually heavier in nature and help form a film or protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss. They slow down evaporation and help skin retain a softer, more dewy look for longer.
Occlusives are important during the wintertime to keep that moisture in, but you have to be careful, as some can feel greasy or may be too heavy for acne-prone skin.
There can be an overlap between occlusives and emollients, as some ingredients perform both jobs.
When looking for occlusives, safe and effective options include:
- Natural oils: A number of natural oils work as emollients and occlusives. Some good choices include rose hip, avocado, and hazelnut oils.
- Natural butters: Look for shea, cocoa, and mango.
- Natural waxes: Beeswax is a good occlusive ingredient, particularly in balms.
- Olive-based squalene: This is an ingredient found naturally in skin sebum or skin oil. As we age, we produce less of it. Sources include shark liver oil, vegetable oil, or olives.
- Allantoin: This ingredient comes from the comfrey herb and helps with moisturization and skin healing.
Try to avoid these:
- Petroleum-based products: These include petrolatum or petroleum jelly, and mineral oil.
- Silicones: These are man-made chemicals that form a film over the skin’s surface, and may increase acne breakouts. Dimethicone is a very common one in today’s products.
Other Things You Can Do to Protect Skin in Cold Weather
In addition to choosing a good moisturizer that includes safe ingredients from each of the four categories above, you can also help protect your skin from the ravages of winter weather with these tips:
- Use a humidifier to combat dry air.
- Try not to use hot water too often to wash-it strips skin of its natural moisturizing oils.
- Apply moisturizer immediately after getting out of the shower or bath.
- Use gentle, creamy cleansers.
- Protect skin with scarves, gloves, and other clothing options.
- Be liberal with the moisturizing oil at night before bed.
How do you protect your skin in winter?
